San Francisco’s Gourmet Ghetto-nobody calls it that yet. Berkeley is known for it’s Gourmet Ghetto which is heavily weighted on by Chez Panisse to the east and The Cheese Board on the west on Shattuck.
San Francisco Gourmet Ghetto is alive, abundant and rising. While Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto is a first mover and yet unmoving beyond it’s heavily steeped institutions like Chez Panisse which rests solidly on Alice Waters reputation and advocacy. Eating locally was promoted here as we might expect. The Cheese Board is truly unique and it is what we might think of as being uniquely Berkeley. The Cheese Board’s testament and unfettered devotion shows a great love for this art form. Berkeley is still special and beyond the Gourmet Ghetto is the infamous Berkeley Bowl that though not technically lifts the Gourmet Ghetto’s boundaries to a much larger footprint.
San Francisco’s Gourmet Ghetto is the Mission District. The Mission District maybe thought of as only a cheap place to eat and where Taqueria’s abound. The Mission District may not seem to have such blazingly well-known institutions like Chez Panisse and that is perfectly fine. The Mission District is both a place where good food is a tradition and in subtle ways a magnet for a more artisanal expression without a lot of self-praise or a glutinous PR-spun noise. The Mission District is not the picturesque Russian and Nob Hills but a place with murals, low-key edifices, art deco, Edwardian-Victorian, and shabby shacks. It is not an immediate crowd pleaser but look closer and it has a lot to offer. And the list seems to be exploding even in these deep recessionary times.
First looking at the food markets—look at Rainbow Grocers on Division (below the Central Skyway); a local food institutions with a staff that owns the grocer—chock full of organic and natural products, bulk foods, organic fruit and vegetables, artisanal cheeses, and pre-made foods; no meat products in their offering.
Then look to pre-made food central – Bi-Rite a feeding institution to people many blocks from their 18th Street headquarters—there are plenty of house-made baked goods, meats, charcuteries, cheese, wine, and fruit and vegetables. A beyond crowded place after 5 pm and each Saturday and Sunday. Bi-Rite founded 18 Reasons (18reasons.org) a non-profit dedicated to the food and drinkable arts—on the northeast corner of 18th street and Guerrero Streets. 18 Reasons has classes in knife sharpening, artisan cheese producers, and the famous 18th hour focus – 7 pm each Thursday evening—where specialty and artisanal food and wine and beer producers come to give everyone a taste.
I would say as in all things borders should be loose and fluid; when definitions are made someone will always look to break them. On the north is Division Street to the west is Dolores Street and to the south –this is a harder one to define but stretches to 30th Street and Mission and on the east is Portrero.
San Francisco’s Gourmet Ghetto contains all of the city’s most dynamic ice houses: Bi-Rite Creamery—famous for their salted caramel ice cream, Bombay Creamery with their focus on sub-continent flavors of cardamom, rose, saffron and pistachio, Lychee, and Chai tea, down south is Xanath Ice Cream with their vanguard of glorious Mexican vanilla. There is Mitchells on that amorphous southern border is known for their tropical flavors of avocado, Macapuno (sweet coconut), and Ube (purple yam) to name a few. And on the 24th is the ever irreverent Humphry-Slocombe with unique flavor combinations that I would have never thought of as ice cream like strawberry-Chevre, Balsamic caramel, McEvoy olive oil, salt and pepper and government cheese.
The Mission’s Mexican food is a standard serve in the Taqueria concept—someone on the opposite side building a taco, burrito, enchilada to specification. Many of the Taqueria have several locations in the Mission and beyond and are mainstay to big and inexpensive food—there are many fewer full service Mexican eateries. There are also almost all central American cuisine eateries in the area. Las Tinajas on Mission near 20 is known for Nicaraguan food; there is Salvadorian, a Yucateco, Cuban and there is overlap in several central cookeries under one roof; there are combo Mexican eateries with other central American cuisines. The infamous La Palma Mexica-tessan and 24th Street and Florida offers staples of fresh tortillas—more than just corn and flour but many choices—that you may have to look and ponder a bit; there are beautiful chiles, Mexican and central American cheeses; the prepared foods are sumptuous and well portioned and you will see a large crew making tortillas, masa, tamales, and so fourth—a treasure for the senses. A big hit is Limon and Limon Rotisserie serving up Peruvian specials of Tacu-Tacu, Lomo Soltado, and divine Ceviches this side of Lima.
24th Street is the true Mission and has many Panderias and produce markets. San Francisco has few bakeries—but come to the Gourmet Ghetto for daily prepared Mexican baked goods—many also have tamales to go. These bakeries get little attention for their lovely baked creations. Also on 24th Street near Portrero is the pillow-like factory of Dyanmo donuts and their famous creation of maple and bacon donuts are better eaten then conjectured.
Tartine, Elizabeth Preuitt and Chad Roberton’s creation is always packed bakery creates artisanal quality croissant, cheese breads, flourless chocolate cakes and delicate and delightful cookies. A line is a constant here as well as gorgeous baked goods.
Italian eateries are here and the Northern style are predominate—Anne and Craig Stoll’s long-running Delfina was a first mover they have subsequently opened a pizzeria; then came Bar Bambino with their olive oil tasting, Beretta and their prized mixology, pizza and risotto, and the latest if Farina. Lucca Ravioli on Valencia and 22nd opened every day except Sunday making delightful fresh ravioli and pasta, there is a deli case with all the best of Italian cheese and meats; they carry and large selection of pastas, olive oils, and wine.
There are simple burger places like Urban Burger with Texas toast as your bread option (as must to satisfy the salty, buttery, crispy craving you might be having); nice to have an optional onion ring, garlic fries, or sweet potato fries. Another burger joint is Burger Joint on Valencia between 19th and 20th Street—there is Jay’z cheesesteak and burger, and lastly Mega Mouth
For an Asian flavor there is a small Thai chain called Osha; Dosa—southern Indian, there is the Udupi Palace—vegetarian Indian, also on Valencia is Cha-Ya, a Vegetarian Japanese restaurant. There are more cafeteria-style Asian restaurants mainly on Mission Street.
For a city where there are few Greek restaurants – the Mission has Hellenic American Imports which has a more prominent signage that says “My Big Fat Greek Store” is an excellent place to go for Greek cheeses, olive oils, Greek wines and pastries. One Block west is Parea Wine Bar on Valencia Street; Parea specializes in Greek and other wines and Mediterranean foods. Medjool on Mission Street cooks North African, Middle Eastern and Southern European cuisines. Another Middle Eastern treat is Truly Mediterranean, on 16th and Valencia—for a quick and amazing Falafel or Shishkabob this micro eatery is perfect for getting your fixed fulfilled– wonderful flavors of hummus, Baba Ghannouj, made fresh.
There is the California cuisine restaurant Range on Valencia between 19 and 20th street—infamous for their mixology; there food is well regarded—it is local, fresh and relevant. Precision preparation in an intimate setting. Chez Spencer a French restaurant on the unassuming 14th street – just behind Rainbow grocers; Woodward’s Gardens a very small and intimate restaurant serving up a similar fare to Range. The kitchen is omnipresent but in a very ambient, almost un-assuming way.
There is the just opened Saison on Folsom Street in the mission and according to their site “tucked away in a stable” promised to be a competitor of Chez Panisse and this restaurant is what was needed to finally be able to call this area the gourmet ghetto.
There is also a trend of street foods and if City of San Francisco doesn’t get in the way this trend could be a great hallmark for it’s Gourmet Ghetto. Neary my living quarters I do see on a Friday—once a month a food tribal gathering and the chefs in the white gear saddle up to serve their fares. I ran into a bakery on wheels. This area of San Francisco has a great capacity to serve locals and just large enough to accommodate a great variety in a small space. There are no other areas as vibrant and per square ½ square mile is wonderful foods abound. For many reasons this will continue and it is the place that feels quite comfortable to many locals.
And finally an expression of a good meal is to be topped off with wondrous coffee; Philz Coffee on 24th and Folsom started it off with Turkish and Arabic coffees hand brewed per order. Then on Valencia is Ritual Roasters with on-site roasting and French pressed coffee and a former partner started Four Barrel coffee on Valencia Street on the Northerly reaches of the San Francisco Gourmet Ghetto. Rodgers coffee tucked on 20th Street between Mission and Valencia is an individual brewed coffee house.
San Francisco’s Gourmet Ghetto is far overdo and know there is a centrifuge of food activities—take a walking tour to get a feel; sample some foods and stay for dinner.
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A plethora of wine reviews from wines regions from around the world. Read my wine reviews: jamesthewineguy.wordpress.com © 2009 James Meléndez / Jaime Patricio Meléndez –also a plethora of food and restaurant reviews – jamesthefoodguy.wordpress.com or jamestherestaurantguywordpress.com All Rights Reserved – James the Wine Guy also on Facebook.
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